DIY beauty treatments flourished in 2020 with the temporary closure of salons and stores across the world. One trend that really spiked (pun intended!) during iso was dermarolling (also known as microneedling), which involves using a tool to puncture the top layer of the skin.
The idea here is that when you create these small pricks in the skin, it helps encourage collagen production and leads to plump and more radiant-looking skin. While the sound of needling your skin might sound overwhelming, we turned to practising nurse, esthetician and LUX SKIN‘s expert consultant, Renee Considine, to get the lowdown on everything you need to know about the treatment.
What is dermarolling?
“Dermarolling is a cosmetic procedure using microneedles to puncture the upper layer of your skin creating very superficial ‘micro-injuries’ to help topical skin products penetrate the skin barrier and enhance product effectiveness from needling the active ingredients into the skin,” Considine told The Latch. “Derma Rolling is designed specifically for home care use due to its shorter needles which means it safe to use at home without the need for topical numbing cream.”
What are the benefits of dermarolling?
The reason why so many people swear by dermarolling and it’s because of the positive effect it can have on your skin. It’s particularly great for acne-scarred skin as it can help reduce visible scarring.
“Dermarolling has shown to improve scarring, skin tone and texture,” Considine said. “It helps diminish fine lines and wrinkles, while also increasing product infusion which can result in younger-looking rejuvenated skin.
“Dermarolling can also help with a range of skin concerns such as acne scarring, stretch marks, fine lines, pigmentation, enlarged pores, blackheads and give an overall skin-tightening boost.”
How to use a dermaroller
“To ensure your dermaroller is clean, use an alcohol-based soak prior to using the tool and transfer to a clean surface area free from any dirt or harmful bacteria,” Considine said. “Prep the surface area of the skin by cleansing and removing any makeup or oils with an antiseptic cleanser before you start the treatment. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
“Upon application of the rolling tool, move from the centre of your face then outwards in a back and forth motion starting horizontally then vertically over and across the contours of the face. For an extra boost, add a corrective serum suited to your skin concerns and once that has soaked into the skin, apply a gentle moisturiser.”
What are the dos and don’ts of dermarolling?
Given you’re running tiny needles across your face, there are a few things you should avoid doing when dermarolling and other things you need to do in order to effectively use the tool.
— Do use the dermaroller regularly to see results
You can’t simply jump into using the tool multiple times per week, as you have to allow your skin some time to adapt to the treatment.
“You should start by rolling once per week building up to 2-3 times per week,” Considine said.
— Don’t use retinol in conjunction with dermarolling when starting out
“It’s best to stop using retinol three days before rolling,” Considine said. “You may also experience some slight sensitivities post-treatment, especially to the sun so ensure SPF50 is included in your daily routine.
“Certain acne medications may also make you more sensitive to treatment so best check with your GP or dermatologist prior to application. Use a gentle cleanser and moisturiser for the first two to three days after the treatment before returning to your normal routine including the use of retinol or Retin-A.”
— Be careful with the tool but ultimately, dermarolling shouldn’t hurt
According to Considine, dermarolling shouldn’t hurt but remember to keep a light touch when using the tool on your skin.
“Press lightly into the skin to start until you find a pressure where you are comfortable and able to tolerate the rolling,” she said. “You want to feel the needling but not to a point where it’s uncomfortable.”