Nelly Robinson, a Sydney-based chef and restauranteur for the past decade, hates one restaurant trend he’s seeing sweep the city: shared dining, either between two or a big group.
“It’s done and dusted,” Robinson tells me. “Get rid of it. It’s overpriced. People don’t eat as much because they’re trying to be polite. It spoils the dining experience; ruins the opportunity for guests to have that dish one-on-one for themselves.”
Though I agree with Robinson — I’ve never been a fan of sharing food, mainly because I find I always eat too much or too little — I’d never heard that take on shared dining from a chef. So I was curious: do other chefs feel the same? Do they feel their creations are less appreciated when picked apart and shared by several people?
Alex Wong, executive chef at restaurants Lana and Martinez, says his feelings towards sharing dining when he’s the diner depend on the occasion and who he’s with. When Wong’s dining with his partner or having a business meeting, he’ll go for individual plates. When he’s with close friends, family or colleagues, he’ll share, saying it feels fun and relaxed dining in this way.
“I’ve definitely seen a big shift towards shared dining over the last decade,” he says. “I think it’s partly because newer restaurants are maximising dining space over kitchen space and shared plates make that a lot easier to manage.”
Zach Elliott-Crenn, head chef at Gildas, where all dishes are meant to be shared, says he’s also noticed more shared dining in Sydney. He says people seem more accepting of it than in previous years. They’re more open to how much fun it can be to order a bunch of plates from a menu to share.
“It’s an opportunity to try more things and to venture out of your comfort zone without risking it all,” says Elliott-Crenn. “I love watching people share their joy in our food. It’s a way for people to connect, to be in the moment.”
He adds that as people become more familiar with different cuisines and cultures, where sharing dishes is the norm, they’re realising it’s another way to enjoy food. He also points out that food and dining out are meant to be fun. Dishes are supposed to be eaten in the way that makes you happiest — that’s what’s important.
“Of course, there are some challenges when designing a dish to be shared but figuring out how to make it work is part of the fun,” he says. Wong mentions challenges in shared plates too, but says that with enough creativity from the chef, they can absolutely work without taking away from how the dish was meant to be enjoyed.
“As a chef, [whether I’m pro or against shared dining] depends on how the kitchen is set up,” Wong says. “Some kitchens are better suited for set menus with individual plates, while others are perfect for shared-style dining. Lana has both options so people can choose what works for them.”
Wong says in Lana’s kitchen, shared dining made things easier. The team could pump out big numbers quickly, which kept the energy up in the kitchen and the guests happy. He says shared dining isn’t going anywhere but that both dining styles — individual or shared — have their place.
“There will always be venues that suit individual plates and others perfect for sharing,” he says. “It’s about finding what fits the space and crowd.”
Elliott-Crenn agrees on both points. “Shared dining is about so much more than sitting at a table together — it’s about sharing an experience,” he says. “I hope it opens up conversations and people realise just how much we have in common.”
My take? Ultimately, the preference for individual or shared dining is a personal choice. Both styles have their pros and cons, depending on the restaurant’s concept and the diner’s preference. Sure, shared dining might detract from being one-on-one with a dish, but it can also create other (great) experiences — connecting you with others at the table and letting you try dishes and ingredients you never normally would. As for me (and likely Robinson), I’ll stick to my individual plate.
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