Skip the tourist trap. We’re asking locals and well-versed folks only for their edit of the secret spots they visit time and time again.
Easily one of the most popular restaurants in Copenhagen, Denmark is Noma. Australian chef Ben Greeno moved to Copenhagen (‘København’ in Danish) in 2003 to help Rene Redzepi open the restaurant.
He spent five years there, working at Noma and a few other restaurants before returning to Sydney. Today he’s the executive chef of Hotel Centennial and Fred’s Paddington. And when it comes to Copenhagen tips we would appreciate, the best person to ask.
“What most people get wrong about Copenhagen is that it’s cold and grey,” says Greeno. “Granted the winters can be a bit rough but the city in the summer is so alive — it’s amazing.”
Greeno adds that though Copenhagen is only a small city, it has everything you could want: great shopping, world-class galleries and incredible restaurants. Plus, it’s clean and safe.
The Best Restaurants in Copenhagen
BÆST
BÆST serves raw milk cheeses, artisanal butchery and Sicilian-style pizza. Its owner, Sicilian-born Christian Puglisi, is a former sous chef at Noma, overlapping with Greeno’s time at the restaurant for a few years, during which Greeno says Puglisi “always led the way”.
“Christian makes his own cheese and charcuterie that they use in the venue,” says Greeno. “All of it is outstanding. He uses the best pigs in the country to make his meat product. The pizza has been voted some of the best in the world.
Jatak
Located in Copenhagen’s suburbs, Jatak serves set menus only. The menus focus on local and seasonal ingredients cooked in styles inspired by its teams’ cultures.
“Try and get seat at the counter,” says Greeno. “It’s by another ex-Noma chef, Jonathan Tam’s. After leaving Noma, John went on to open Relae [now closed] with Christian [Puglisi]. Sitting at the kitchen counter talking to the chefs is the best way to experience the restaurant if you can get the opportunity.”
Restaurant Palægade
Restaurant Palægade was affected by fires in March 2020 but was rebuilt and re-opened in 2021. It’s owned by the same team as restaurant Formel B, which has held one Michelin star since 2004.
“This is a classic Danish lunch place,” says Greeno. “Get into the Herrings and the schnapps, my go-to’s are the warm fried herring with caramelised onions and ramsons and the hand-peeled shrimps with mayonnaise.
“Shrimp season in Denmark in a great time to be there and the restaurants make the most of it with extra staff brought in for the peeling jobs.”
The Best Things to Do in Copenhagen
Ride a Bike
Greeno says the best thing to do in Copenhagen is to simply ride a bike. It’s one of the quickest and easiest ways to around the city and lets you experience life like a Dane.
“Last time we were there, I took some colleagues, and on the first night, we did an eating tour of the city, going to about six restaurants, jumping on the bikes between each one,” says Greeno. “We rented them from a basement in Kongens Nytorv [public square] which is the centre of the city. While you’re in the area, walk down the canal and also check out the Royal Theatre there.”
Swim in the Harbour
Another way to experience life like a Dane? Greeno suggests you jump in the harbour. “There are lots of spots for swimming and sunbathing all across the city,” he says. “The summer in the city is wonderful. Everyone is cheerful and relaxed.”
Browse at Klassik Copenhagen
Once you’ve dried off, bike over to Klassik Copenhagen. It’s a vintage furniture shop, that Greeno describes as having “some of the best furniture in the world”.
“All immaculate vintage furniture from the 1920s to the 1980s,” he says. “The staff are wonderful and have incredible knowledge of what they are selling. They ship internationally and the process is very smooth. My wife has her eye on a Grasshopper Chair but it’ll probably be a few years before that happens.”
Shop at Goods
Goods is a multi-brand menswear store that sells online and has a physical shop in Copenhagen. “It has lots of great brands like Drakes, Sunspel, Gitman Vintage,” says Greeno. “The last time we were there, I picked up a few of their own label shirts, which are still my day-to-day picks.”
Stroll the Streets
For one of the most scenic walks in Copenhagen, Greeno suggests you start behind the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and walk along the coastline through a village to the next train station.
“The houses along the waterfront are stunning with a few thatched cottages thrown in there too,” he says. “It should take about an hour, the beach is on one side so you can have a dip at the same time.”
The Best Hotel in Copenhagen
The best place to stay in Copenhagen in Greeno’s eyes is Hotel Sanders, which blends architectural and décor styles of Danish mid-century modern, colonial British and classic French bistro.
“Open fires, beautiful furniture, plenty spaces to curl up with a drink and book before going out for dinner,” says Greeno. “Or in the summer, sitting on the rooftop courtyard with a martini to finish off the night. If you get a chance, book an afternoon on their 8m boat from the ‘60s for a trip around the city. It’s a great way to see the city that has such a deep connection to the water.”
Related: Lennox Hastie’s Guide to One of the World’s Most Awarded Gastronomical Cities
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