Savoury cocktails are part of a bigger trend, say a few Australian drinks experts. People are becoming more adventurous with their palates, encouraging bartenders to experiment with savoury flavours.
“Bartenders are catering to a growing demand for more complex, less sugary drinks,” says France Rainteau, venue manager of Sydney restaurant and mezcal bar Santa Catarina, one of the experts I asked about the savoury cocktail trend.
Bon Appetit named it one of its eight trends defining bars in 2024, mentioning a cocktail of smoky-sweet corn whisky and a dusting of charred corn and another that mixes clay-infused pisco and porcini-steeped vermouth, served at US bars, as examples.
Gordon Purnell, co-owner of Sydney bars Tigra and Disco Pantera, traces the start of savoury cocktails in recent history to the Bloody Mary which was popular in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. Considered a hangover cure, it soon became synonymous with brunch culture. In the ‘00s, Purnell says bartenders were inspired by Japanese flavours and used more umami ingredients.
“They were mainly used as modifiers and stayed in the background,” he says. “Fast forward to now and margaritas, especially spicy varieties, are booming. This style lets bartenders experiment with bold and robust ingredients normally associated with food.”
Savoury cocktails let bartenders bridge the gap between drinking and dining and play with flavour combinations normally only found in food dishes, Purnell says. He thinks the pandemic made consumers more aware of elevated food and drink after they tried recipes for them at home. That newfound knowledge translated into a higher demand for more interesting dishes and drinks.
Rainteau says the rise in savoury cocktails is also partly due to the new focus on local, fresh ingredients. At her venue, Santa Catarina, mint, hibiscus, coffee, fruit and tomato juice concentrate are used in cocktails.
“People are seeking more complex, layered flavours,” says Menak Grover, co-founder of Melbourne hospitality group Hecho En Mexico. “The rise of low-sugar and wellness-conscious trends may have also contributed as savoury cocktails tend to feel more health-conscious than overly sweetened drinks.”
His venues serve several savoury cocktails including a michelada with tomato and clam juice that give it a rich, umami flavour, and a chilli lime cilantro margarita, made with fresh coriander that gives it an herbaceous taste. Many of the cocktails also include salt to add an extra punch.
Eduardo Conde, venue manager at El Primo Sanchez, uses Japanese ingredients like furikake (mix of dried fish, sesame seeds and MSG), katsuobushi (fermented tuna) and koji (fermented rice grains) for his savoury cocktails. He says they add incredible complexity and depth to drinks.
Conde says Australian bartenders’ take on savoury cocktails is different from other bartenders because of our exceptional maritime produce. Ingredients like karkalla (a succulent also known as beach banana), kelp and oysters add a unique savoury touch. “Australia’s great access to Asian ingredients is also a huge advantage for incorporating savoury flavours,” he says.
Grover thinks our edge on the global scene lies in our use of Indigenous ingredients and local produce. “The trend is also intertwined with sustainability where bartenders use kitchen scraps, foraging and fermentation techniques to create innovative drinks and reduce waste,” says Grover.
He predicts we’ll see more integration of native botanicals and regional flavours in drinks, particularly as sustainability continues to influence the bar scene. He also predicts fermentation will play a larger role in drinks, with more bartenders experimenting with house-made vinegar, brines and fermented garnishes.
“We might even see collaborations between chefs and bartenders creating cocktails that complement or even mirror the flavours on their food menus.”
Purnell says he has no idea what’s ahead for savoury cocktails but one he’d love to see is a boozy gazpacho. He tried it once with bourbon but considered the result unsuccessful. He hopes to see a resurgence of the iconic Red Eye cocktail, made with beer and tomato juice. “For me, that was the best savoury drink of all time,” he says.
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