Australia’s interpretation of British food isn’t the same as what’s served in Britain, says British-born, Sydney-based chef Nelly Robinson. While it’s common for countries to put their own spin on other cuisines, I was surprised to hear this about Australian British food, given Australia’s direct ties to Britain. One chef predicts the gap will soon close.
“Australian pub food is schnitzels, burgers and things like that,” says Robinson. He’s the chef-owner of Sydney restaurant NEL, and as of September 2024, heads the kitchen at Nag’s Head Hotel and Winston’s.
“If you’re looking at the pub situation in the UK at the minute, it’s all fish pies and fish and chips in the front, but in the back, you’ve got a traditional pub with a restaurant,” says Robinson. “A gastro pub [gastronomic pub] is a restaurant inside a pub.”
Located within Nag’s Head Hotel, Winston’s is a gastro pub with a set menu of five courses, including tandoori ceviche kingfish, fish pie and curried mussels. On Sundays, the whole of Nag’s Head, Winston’s included, serves a seasonal English roast. Robinson considers it to be Sydney’s first true gastro pub.
“Australia was ready for the new gastro pub scene because it’s been needing it for years,” he says. “It’s got a bit stale with the pub menus across Sydney.”
I asked another chef about Australia’s interpretation of British food. Billy Hannigan who spent eight years at The Ledbury in London and is currently executive chef at Sydney’s The Charles Brasserie and Bar, said he agrees with all Robinson’s sentiments. Hannigan adds that another way we re-interpret British cuisine is by using our fresh, local produce.
“We are so privileged here in Australia as our produce is some of the best in the world,” he says. “Recreating a great fish and chips or a weekend roast is made pretty easy by having great produce.”
Hannigan also says another difference he’d like to see stay is our blending of British food with other cuisines — like French. At The Charles, Hannigan puts a spin on the traditional British Sunday roast by Frenching a large cote de boeuf and then slowly cooking it until it’s pink and ready to be presented tableside for carving.
“As a chef, you never want to mess with a great classic but there’s always room for refinement,” Hanngian says. “I think there will always be chefs doing great things to take a Sunday roast or beautifully prepared pie to the next level.”
So, what’s ahead for Australia’s British food scene? No doubt we’ll see more gastro pubs like Winston’s emerge – not only because Winston’s paved the way for other similar restaurants to follow but also because it’s part of a growing trend in Australian dining. Diners are seeking more refined dining experiences, prompted by rising cost of living and wanting to make our restaurant experiences more special.
It’s also likely that what many consider to be good about Australian British food — the use of high-quality ingredients and fusions with other cuisines — will continue. The evolution reflects Australia’s identity in general — a nation that embraces its heritage but is adamant about forging its own way.
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