The Sydney brunch institution, Devon Café, which opened in 2013 Surry Hills and is now in Barangaroo, has launched a new menu. What’s more, the star of this menu is “The Uni Brunch Experience.”
Created by Devon Group Executive Chef Zachary Tan, the $88 delicacies-packed brunch is centred around the Australian sea urchin season, specifically ‘uni’, a purple short-spine sea urchin varietal from Tasmania.
The experience starts with a trio of snacks, Wagyu steak tartare, Uni ‘egg’ sandwich, with roe of sea urchin and puffed salmon skin, and Hervey Bay scallop, served with Avruga caviar.
Mains to share include the Caviar Fish Sando, Katsu N2 hake fillet, and caviar sauce, served in a potato bun, and Uni Noodles, with premium-grade uni, Queensland tiger prawns, spicy OX, and eggs two ways. To finish, tuck into Ube Sundae, made with boba, mochi, and brown sugar.
Tan was one of the first café chefs in Australia to eschew the standard model of scrambled eggs, muesli, and toast for brekkie. Instead, he worked alongside Head Chef Billy Bong to design quirky brunch menus not bound by borders or cultures.
“I firmly believe we are disruptors and are not afraid to do things differently,” says Tan. “We were the first café in Sydney to start using truffles in our dishes, for instance. We also understand the importance of sourcing premium ingredients and curate nostalgic dishes that are relatable yet unique.”
All dishes from the Uni Brunch Experience are also available to order a la carte. They sit alongside long-time café favourites Japanese Omelette Sando, consisting of fluffy white bread, Japanese mayo, furikake, and thick umami omelette.
Other sandos on the menu include Wagyu Katsu Sando and Chicken Katsu Sando, while French Toast by Devon Executive Pastry Chef Markus Andrew, who worked with Adriano Zumbo at the Star and was the first Indonesian to become a Le Cordon Blue Culinary instructor, is a favourite for those with a sweet tooth. The dish’s flavours evolve as the seasons change.
Another long-time favourite at the café is Breakfast With The Sakuma’s. Tan conceptualised the dish after breakfast with a friend, who served a simple dish of fresh koshihikari rice from their neighbour’s rice paddy, along with miso soup and a piece of grilled salted mackerel. The dish is a staple Japanese breakfast meant to sustain a salaryman at the start of their 12-hour workday.
“Breakfast With The Sakuma’s hasn’t left the menu since 2013, when we first opened,” says Tan. “It features a miso-grilled king salmon, crunchy eel croquette, 63-degree egg, kewpie mayo, and a radish salad to freshen things up.”
Note that Devon Café doesn’t take bookings and can get quite packed on the weekends, so be prepared to wait up to an hour for a table.