Not enough of us are talking about York, or at least not knowingly.
Yorkshire Tea (probably the best tea available, no further questions) hails from the county of Yorkshire. As does the Yorkshire terrier, one of the cutest dogs around (again, not taking questions at this time). But did you know that? I do… now, at least.
No, it wasn’t until I visited the city of York that I realised just how much this pint-sized city was punching above its weight. Though only 271 square kilometres — Sydney is about 12,368 square kilometres by comparison — there’s just so much to do, see, eat and enjoy. My only regret? Not staying longer.
At the tail-end of 2024, I stopped in for a night’s stay on my way from London to Edinburgh. Realising quickly that I should have extended my stay by at least another day, I packed in as much as my soles and the daylight would allow.
So here it is, my guide to a blissful 48 hours in York.
Getting There and Around
York is but a short two-hour train ride north of London. The station is super close to the city center and even closer to my hotel recommendation, so while you can drive, you’ll effectively halve your travel time by taking the train.
Arrive in time for tea and scones, ready to hit the pavement and get your steps in. Rideshares are available but I enjoyed taking in sights on foot, though I hear biking is also a great option.
Stay
I stayed at The Grand, and it lived up to its name in every way. From the impeccably dressed doorman who tipped his hat to greet and took my oversized bag without complaint, to the reception staff who asked, bewildered, how I’d made my way from Sydney – everyone and everything in the hotel was designed to dazzle.
I could have spent hours exploring the palatial property and all of the features that earned it each one of its five stars. Grand staircases; the Legacy fine dining restaurant separate to The Rise — which awoke guests with a full buffet breakfast and the morning paper; and an underground pool, sauna and spa set in the hotel’s atmospheric former vaults. I’d go back for that alone.
I stayed in an Executive Room, which, with warm coloured walls and something like five separate lounging spots, had a more classic vibe about it. I felt every bit as important as the room would suggest. The tub came in handy after a long day of walking, and the mini bar carried local teas (Yorkshire, of course) and Scottish shortbread biscuits in a generous serving.
The Grand is opposite the train station with the town centre only a five-minute walk up the street. Each step is a scenic one, over the River Ouse and alongside the City Walls. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Eat
Whilst I had the worst sausage roll of my life in York – nobody told me it’s tradition to serve them fridge-cold in England – other than that experience, the food in York blew my mind.
With the area’s rich agricultural heritage providing a wealth of fresh, high-quality ingredients and the unofficial “exodus” of high-profile London chefs opting into the more relaxed lifestyle of York, the town has a lot going for it in the culinary department.
Atop your list should be Roots, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant on a twenty-acre farm, the produce of which goes into all of their paradigm-shifting menu items. Notably, the rippled ice cream is churned from raw milk and damson plums from their farm, kissed with brandy and cream, then crowned with plum-blossom sauce and earthy rhubarb root oil. Roots books out so make your reservation the second you know you’ll be stopping by. I also had a fabulous meal at The Pearly Cow inside the No. 1 York hotel. The image you conjure when you think of the perfect Sunday roast with all the trimmings? That daydream is courtesy of The Pearly Cow.
Tea and scones are a staple here and I had mine at Betty’s, though plenty of tea rooms will welcome you inside for a pot of tea and a buttery baked good with strawberry jam and clotted cream, for which England is so famous. Speaking of, I was lucky enough to pass through The Shambles Market during my time in the city centre and happened across a Terry’s Chocolate Orange crepe, which was an easy ten-out-of-ten. Hunt that down if you can.
If you have only a little time but want to try a lot, Spark is worth a visit for lunch. It’s a collection of stalls home to some of the best independent food and drinks, like authentic Indian street food from Sarras (Gujarati for ‘yummy’, checks out) or a crisp peach lager from Piccadilly Tap, one of their many craft beers from home and abroad.
And whether it’s The Grand you stay at or another landmark hotel, the hotel restaurants in York present some of the best and most thoughtful menus in town, and welcome visitors regardless of whether they have a room key or not.
Play
To get acquainted with the city, I’d recommend walking around the historic City Walls.
Built over centuries starting in the Roman period and continuing through the medieval era, the landmark offers a fascinating glimpse into York’s rich history and architecture, and is a cruisy 3.5 kilometre circuit. Look out for the steep steps at various entrance gates — it’s where you’ll capture the best photos.
An interest in ghosts and haunted tales will take you far in this city, too. The Original Ghost Walk of York is run every night at 8pm and doesn’t require a booking.
For the Harry Potter fans, and everyone really, a trip to York isn’t complete without a walk through The Shambles. It’s a medieval shopping street that many believe to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley, and with its wonky dwellings, pokey stores and magical feel, you can really see why. Many a magical store has since opened in the area, should you wish to take home a Harry Potter-themed souvenir — Evanesco all my money.
Perhaps the most memorable thing I did in York, though, was climb the 275 steep and spiraling steps to the top of the Central Tower of York Minster. Built in 627AD, it’s one of the largest Gothic Cathedrals in Europe with a view that takes your breath away — or maybe that’s the stairs.
Drink
We’re in England so naturally we’re visiting the pub. The Blue Bell is York’s smallest, though what it lacks in space, it makes up for in charm. If you’re game, Golden Fleece is rumoured to be one of the most haunted pubs in the UK – it dates back to 1503 and is said to be home to 15 ghosts.
Almost by accident, I stumbled across Vi Coffee + Wine and it captivated me immediately. If York was home this would be my local, and you’d find me here every Sunday afternoon having a vino from their neat but considered wine list and a yap with a girlfriend and nibbling on a plate of cured meats from Yorkshire farms and British cheeses on local Little Arras sourdough.
As the sun began to set, I stopped by Grays Court Hotel. I’d seen a little of the garden and felt I’d earned a G&T, a stalwart refreshment of the United Kingdom. The hotel felt private but I was greeted as a friend and welcomed up the bar for a drink. I kindly requested to sit in the garden and the team were happy to oblige, setting me up with a beautiful table overlooking the property, gardens, and York’s towering and magnificent Minster. You know those holiday moments you just remember forever? This was that.
Sipping on my York Gin Rhubarb — the locally-farmed rhubarb lending a tangy zing to complement the tonic’s sweetness — I watched dusk fall upon the gardens to the tune of church bells and bird chirps. Though this wasn’t technically a bar or pub, it was my favourite tipple and I’d recommend anyone visiting York to follow in my footsteps.
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