Skip the tourist trap. We’re asking locals and well-versed folks only for their edit of the secret spots they visit time and time again.
For Lennox Hastie, living in San Sebastian for five years was a transformative experience. The acclaimed Australian chef immersed himself in the city in northern Spain’s culinary world, working at fine dining restaurants and pintxos bars.
“San Sebastian taught me the power of simplicity, of letting ingredients speak for themselves and the beauty of a culture that recognises food as an integral part of life,” Hastie says.
He says it was San Sebastian where he honed his culinary craft and understood the essence of cooking with fire. After returning to Australia, he opened his restaurant Firedoor in April 2015 which is entirely powered by wood and everything is cooked to order. In 2022, he opened Gildas with a Basque-inspired menu.
Hastie says most visitors to San Sebastian miss its depth. Sure it’s a picturesque coastal city with pintxos bars and Michelin-starred restaurants in spades. It has the second most Michelin stars per capita in the world. But the magic, Hastie says, is in its markets, the local Basque traditions and the way the city respects its land and sea with ingredients.
“The real beauty of San Sebastian lies in its understated simplicity,” he says. “It’s an incredible city where time slows down. The Basques are a proud people, fiercely protective of their traditions, language and above all their food.”
The Best Hotels in San Sebastian
When Hastie visits San Sebastian he usually stays at a pension in the Old Town. A pension is a type of guesthouse or boarding house. He also likes Villa Soro, a five-minute drive from the city centre. The boutique hotel was originally a private residence, built by a merchant family in the 19th century. Today it features wood panelling, marble floors and a maintained garden you can wander.
“It’s a bit removed from the hustle and bustle, offering a peaceful retreat after a day of culinary adventures,” says Hastie.
The Best Restaurants in San Sebastian
Ganbara
On Hastie’s San Sebastian dining hit list is Ganbara in the Old Town, a restaurant that opened in 1984. Hastie says it offers an authentic experience.
“It’s a pintxos bar run by the same family for decades,” he says. “Order the grilled wild mushrooms with a raw egg yolk. It’s a dish that embodies the simplicity of Basque cooking.”
Elkano
Next on Hastie’s dining hit list is one-Michelin-starred Elkano in Getaria. Opened in 1964, it cooks with a grill used to prepare provisions for sea expeditions in the 16th century.
“Order the turbot cooked on the grill,” he says. “The fish is treated with such respect, perfectly charred on the outside, tender and moist inside. It’s served with a simple pil-pil made with the local txakoli [slightly sparkling, very dry white wine made in Basque country].”
Asador Etxebarri
Hastie also mentions one-Michelin-starred Asador Etxebarri, in the village of Bizkaia, about an hour’s drive from San Sebastian. The upscale restaurant serves flame-grilled meat and seafood in a tasting menu which is paid for when you book. “If you are lucky enough to secure a spot at Asador Etxebarri, it is worth the journey,” says Hastie.
Bar Nestor
Hastie describes Bar Nestor as a small, unassuming spot famous for its Spanish tortilla. One food blog calls it a culinary icon in the city, “the Celine Dion of Basque Country pintxos”.
“Tortilla here is perfectly cooked with a soft, creamy centre that melts in your mouth,” says Hastie. “You’ll have to get in quick as they make two tortillas a day. Each is cut into 12 slices. The steak is also phenomenal — charry on the outside and rare within, seasoned simply with coarse salt.”
Casa Cámara
One restaurant Hastie says goes unnoticed in San Sebastian is Casa Cámara. Opened in 1884, the restaurant has stayed within the Cámara family since with the current owners the fourth generation running it. It’s housed in a 17th-century mansion overlooking the port of Donibane.
“It features a live lobster tank with lobster pulled directly from the sea below into the dining room allowing you to choose your catch,” says Hastie.
The Best Things to Do in San Sebastian
Hastie suggests you start a day in San Sebastian with coffee at one of the many seaside sidewalk cafés, watching the waves lap at Concha Beach. Then visit the Mercado de la Bretxa, a market that opened in 1870, where you can see butchers offering cuts of meat and local fishermen selling their catch of the day.
“A hike up Monte Urgull [hill with 123m elevation] will reward you with panoramic views of the city and the sea, followed by lunch at Geralds Bar which has a sister bar in Melbourne,” says Hastie. “In the afternoon I would head to Chillida Leku, an incredible open-air museum with sculptures from Eduardo Chillida.”
At night, Hastie suggests joining locals on a pintxos crawl through the Old Town, moving from bar to bar, sampling small plates and wines from the region. San Sebastian, he says, is best experienced on foot.
“Don’t miss a day trip to the fishing village of Getaria, where you can visit a txakoli vineyard, the Balenciaga Museum and enjoy freshly grilled fish by the sea,” he says.
Related: Chicken Schnitty Aside, Australia Doesn’t Have Much German Food
Related: Australia’s Saying Oui Oui to French Restaurants Again
Read more stories from The Latch and subscribe to our email newsletter.