An email recently came into my inbox. “Another Paddy Chan’s has landed,” it read. “The unique Chinese-Irish fusion is now sizzling in Newtown.” It got me thinking: where’s the line between chefs engaging in playful innovation and their creations being considered gimmicks or stunts?
Social media has undoubtedly changed the dining scene game, and chefs can’t solely rely on making good food anymore to get noticed. It’s easy to see there’s pressure for them to have that social media moment.
We’re seeing it with tableside, theatrical dining experiences, like Tilda‘s bread and butter service and Cibaria’s gorgonzola trolley, and in quirky dishes, like Modo Mio’s octopus on pizza.
Plus, it’s in entire dining concepts, like Vertigo, which sees you dining atop Brisbane Powerhouse, 42m above the ground, wearing a harness and strapped to your chair, and, of course at Paddy Chan’s, which serves Chinese-Irish.
“The line between playful innovation and gimmickry is subjective,” says Nick Byrne, head chef at Paddy Chan’s. “I personally consider hybrid creations like with croissants as examples of gimmicks.”
Paddy Chan’s replicates existing Irish-Chinese dishes like the Spice Bag, which originated in Dublin. Byrne says the team prioritises consistency in its original menu before introducing new, innovative dishes. The venue focuses on replicating an existing cultural experience rather than creating novelty for novelty’s sake.
Kate Gould, CEO, artistic director and partial brains behind Vertigo, says the restaurant is far from a gimmick. From the start, fine dining was a focus. She worked closely with the head chef at one of Brisbane’s most well-known restaurants, Bar Alto, on creating the experience’s menu, so every dish arrives fresh, hot and flavour-packed.
“For us, the key is substance behind the spectacle,” says Gould. “We know that true innovation isn’t just about novelty — it’s about creating meaningful and immersive experiences. Vertigo isn’t just about the thrill — it’s about engaging all the senses.”
For Stefano Bozza, a Michelin-trained chef who heads the kitchen at Modo Mio, playful innovation means every food pairing is intentional. He doesn’t add anything to the menu unless it truly works – his pizza with octopus carpaccio included. Bozza also says he doesn’t feel pressure to create a ‘viral food moment’.
“Social media and PR have always played a big role in dining out — it just looked different in the past,” he says. “While they’re still vital today, word of mouth and customer experience is just as powerful. Great hospitality creates conversations, whether online or in-person.”
I also wanted to hear from an institutional restaurant with a quintessential dining experience and menu, like Otto Brisbane. Gianna Cowper, head pastry chef, says playful innovation should always elevate a dish, not distract from it. It’s about respecting the ingredients and techniques while finding ways to surprise and delight.
“Gimmicks can feel forced,” she says. “If something is done just for the sake of attention without real thought behind it, diners can tell. For us, it’s about taking something people love and making it unforgettable.”
As classic a menu as the restaurant has, it has featured some quirky dishes in the past. Like a lobster sando, a Champagne lobster schnitzel, and a dessert inspired by Golden Gaytime that’s served with truffle instead. Will Cowper, head chef, agrees with the other chefs that when it comes to playful innovation, flavour is key.
“If a dish doesn’t taste incredible, no amount of clever presentation will make up for it,” he says. “We also don’t just chase trends and we never create dishes just to go viral. If a dish connects with people online, that’s great — but it has to be something we’re proud to serve.”
Cowper thinks diners are looking for both comfort and creativity. They want something exciting but still rooted in great flavours and execution. There’s a dining shift towards elevated casual luxury — top-tier ingredients and techniques meet fun, approachable formats.
Ultimately, as Byrne mentions, the line between playful innovation and gimmickry in the culinary world is subjective. Chefs walk a tightrope capturing social media attention and pushing the envelope while maintaining culinary integrity. But the consensus is clear: the driving force behind successful dishes, quirky or traditional, must be great flavour and authentically delighting the diner. Creativity should enhance the dish, not overshadow it.
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