Tastemakers: Morgan Hipworth on the Melbourne Venue That Sums Up the City Best

Welcome to The Latch Tastemakers, where we sit down with people who know a city’s scene like the back of their hand to ask their must-try restaurants, cafes and bars. Dive into our Tastemakers series and curate your ultimate hit-list, whether you’re exploring your own city or venturing somewhere new.

When it comes to Melbourne’s dining scene, 24-year-old restaurateur Morgan Hipworth believes two key elements make it truly exceptional in Australia. Hipworth, who launched his first venue, Bistro Morgan in Windsor, at just 15, now also operates Maven, an all-day restaurant he opened in Fitzroy in 2023. Today, he also shares recipes with his 1.1 million followers on TikTok and most recently worked with American Express Delicious Month Out.

“Melbourne dining pours a lot of heart and soul into it,” he says. “You have so many small business operators like myself who — hospo is their life. They really, really care about each customer and make sure they have an amazing experience.”

Melbourne’s dining scene also stands out for its versatility, with each neighbourhood offering hidden spots and unique venues. Hipworth highlights Fitzroy and Chapel Street in South Yarra as two of his favourite areas. “Fitzroy’s got a little bit more heart and soul, in terms of quite grungy, quite unique and retro,” he says. “You have heaps of cool trendy bars, rooftops, things like that. And South Yarra’s a little bit more polished.”

Below, Hipworth shares some of his top restaurant recommendations in Melbourne.

Gilson

Gilson in South Yarra is Hiwporth’s most frequented Melbourne restaurant. Opened in 2016, the casual, all-day Italian eatery holds a special place for Hipworth.

“I took my girlfriend there for our first date, and it’s just become an institution [for us] over the years,” he says. “It’s classic European-style, which is one of my favourites. It’s intimate, candle-lit, good tunes playing in the background and just good food to enjoy.”

For those visiting, Hipworth has a pro tip: order the vodka. It’s not on the menu — you have to ask for it. The chef simply takes the vodka sauce from a pasta dish to create it.

Maven

One of Hipworth’s favourite desserts in Melbourne is at his restaurant Maven: its Biscoff tiramisu. It’s his take on the classic tiramisu, with layers of sponge, espresso-soaked biscuits and mascarpone cream with Biscoff flavour mixed in. Another favourite at Maven is the half-roasted perri perri chicken, served with a green tarator sauce.

“Maven is one those dining venues where you come in, you feel welcome, like you’re at home,” says Hipworth. “We want to make people feel like they’re in their grandma’s home. We’ve got European-style vibes, great wine, great food and great music.”

Cumulus Inc.

The Melbourne restaurant Hipworth says everyone should visit at least once is Cumulus Inc. Housed in a high-ceilinged, former rag trade building on Flinders Lane and open since 2008, the restaurant serves modern Australian using seasonal ingredients.

“I think it really sums up what Melbourne does so well,” says Hipworth. “Great vibes, great service, great food — and it’s in the heart of the city. Try their lamb shoulder — it’s an absolute classic.”  

Paradai Thai

One Melbourne venue Hipworth doesn’t think gets the hype it deserves is Paradai Thai, which has three locations around Melbourne — Carnegie, Highett and Elsternwick.

“It’s a casual, cheap and cheerful Thai restaurant. My favourite [dishes] would be green chicken curry or mango sticky rice. If it’s mango season, you best believe I’ll be having that whole plate to myself.”

Beverly Rooftop  

Hipworth is such a fan of the Beverly Rooftop’s miso cauliflower (“it’s absolutely beautiful”), he visits the South Yarra restaurant just for it. Opened in 2023, the rooftop sits 24 storeys high with views of the CBD and as far as the Dandenong Ranges.   

“The vibe of Beverly is polished,” says Hipworth. “It’s got that chic European, a little of American Beverly Hills feel to it. It’s where you can go if you want to feel polished or maybe you’re trying to impress someone.”

Related: Why Are Sydney Restaurants Trying to Butter Us Up?

Related: Tastemakers: Giuseppe Federici on London’s Not-to-Miss Restaurants

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